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yknow for the longest time whenever ppl ask me to describe hk iโd always say that it's like a 1960s Singapore blessed with a today Singaporeโs economy - and i dont even mean that as a slight on hk; itโs just that itโs so similar to SG that sometimes you wonder after getting down the plane if the plane even took off at all. tbh, the first time i went i didnโt even know how to appreciate hk that i just ended up doing the one most basic thing a tourist wld do whenever theyโre visiting a place for the first time, and that was to fill my list with all the basic things to do and see and eat (even my list of IG spots to hunt down was basic). the end result of course, was that i ended up feeling like i was basically just exploring an AI extension of sg, and it left me v UNINSPIRED.
by day 3 i KNEW that this couldnโt be it bcos, sure hk is small like sg but it is small in a way that is still BIGGER than sg, and in that case then surely there has got to be more to it than Central & Victoria Harbour and all that usual stuff mirite??? not to mention that i also took the express train from the airport to the city and during the journey i distinctly recalled passing an ENTIRE landscape of mountains and villages and lakes and seas that are, btw, not typically synonymous with what one might picture when they think of HK- and personally i havent seen anyone recommending any of that to me.
and that was when it suddenly hit: could it be possible that there was a WHOLE other calmer side to HK which exists, that everybody had somehow forgotten to pay attention to?
after much digging, i found out that the answer to that was, yes.
if youโre a jaded traveller like me and want to see a city without getting sucked into city things (i.e. crowds, typical tourist hangouts, cosmopolitan bs), then consider any one of these 9 alternative suggestions to all the basic stuff ppl always tell you to do when youโre in hk.
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*๐ญ๐ถ๐น ๐ป๐ฏ๐ฌ ๐ช๐ณ๐จ๐บ๐บ๐ฐ๐ช ๐ป๐ถ๐ผ๐น๐ฐ๐บ๐ป*
๐ค ๐ฆ๐๐๐ฃ ๐ง๐๐๐ฆ: Central, Tsim Sha Tsui, Causeway Bay
๐ค ๐๐ข ๐ง๐๐๐ฆ ๐๐ก๐ฆ๐ง๐๐๐: Sheung Wan
๐ช๐๐ฌ
bcos doing the former would be like hopping on a 4-hour flight from Singapore straight to Orchard Road.
Sheung Wan, on the other hand, is practically a living relic. itโs calm in a city thatโs perpetually frenetic; and like, really, i think when people want to get to the real core of HK, they should be seeing THIS, and not all the glimmer and swank thatโs so basic of any other first-world metropolis. ๐ฅฑ
in case youโre wondering whatโs here, well, i suppose a glorious mismatch of EVERYTHING? itโs like a major cross-cultural melange with plenty of old & new, East & Westโฆ so in that vein expect artisan cafes against temples, galleries and hidden bars against TCM halls, plus lots of winding pathways and shabby chic colonial fronts. def donโt miss the red-bricked Western Market, the oldest surviving marketing in Hong Kong today; as well as Cat Street (lots of curio and antique shops), Dried Seafood Street, Medicine Street, and Graham Street (for an atmospheric glance into Hong Kongโs age-old eating and self-medicating habits).
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*๐ญ๐ถ๐น ๐ป๐ฏ๐ฌ ๐ญ๐ถ๐ถ๐ซ๐ฐ๐ฌ*
๐ค ๐ฆ๐๐๐ฃ ๐ง๐๐๐ฆ: Tim Ho Wan, Makโs Noodle, Tsui Wahโฆ you get the drift
๐ค ๐๐ข ๐ง๐๐๐ฆ ๐๐ก๐ฆ๐ง๐๐๐: Dai Pai Dongs
๐ช๐๐ฌ
as with any destination, if u really want an authentic food experience, avoid chain establishments (that r frankly alr available in sg loll) and get down to the countryโs REAL gourmet roots instead.
dai pai dongs are basically open-air food stalls by the streets that r super casual and super SUPER affordable, so expect queues, crowds, pollution, service with an attitude โ and, an experience that is nothing short of exceptional.
think sg hawker stalls but 100x more atmospheric: itโs zero frills, itโs unpretentious, and somehow also a lot more delicious; imho, i think itโs bcos itโs such a quintessential part of HKโs food community and so genuine to its original local culture that makes the entire affair just that much more flavourful.
๐ช๐๐๐ฅ๐
if u dunno where to start, bookmark:
โจ๏ธ ๐๐ช ๐๐ข๐ฏ ๐๐ข๐ฏ๐จ | Sham Shui Po Building (1A-1C Shek Kip Mei St) | 1630-2300
โจ๏ธ ๐๐ฆ๐ถ๐ฏ๐จ ๐๐ฆ๐ฆ | Sham Shui Po (219 Ki Lung St) | 0730-2230
โจ๏ธ ๐๐ช๐ฏ๐จ ๐๐ฆ๐ฆ | 63 Stanley Street | 1100-1500 / 1700-2300
โจ๏ธ ๐๐ช๐ฏ๐จ ๐๐ฆ๐ถ๐ฏ๐จ ๐ ๐ถ๐ฆ๐ฏ | Central (2 Mei Lun St) | 0800-1700
โจ๏ธ ๐๐ฐ ๐๐ฆ๐ฆ | Sham Shui Po (15-16 Yiu Tung St) | 0600 - 1700
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*๐ญ๐ถ๐น ๐ป๐ฏ๐ฌ ๐บ๐ถ๐ผ๐ฝ๐ฌ๐ต๐ฐ๐น ๐บ๐ฏ๐ถ๐ท๐ท๐ฌ๐น*
๐ค ๐ฆ๐๐๐ฃ ๐ง๐๐๐ฆ: Mong Kok Market
๐ค ๐๐ข ๐ง๐๐๐ฆ ๐๐ก๐ฆ๐ง๐๐๐: PMQ Market
๐ช๐๐ฌ
r u looking to bring back some luckyplaza-esque souvenirs for your friends and family so that you can develop a reputation for handing out ugly keychains and magnets that make it straight to their reject pile?
no right? then skip all your standard souvenir shops in hk.
short for Police Married Quarters, PMQ is a re-purposed heritage-listed building that is presently reliving its reincarnation as a local creative hub. you will find an endless collection of galleries, workshops, bookstores, indie collectives (plus there are also seasonal pop-ups and night markets???) and itโs all very design-forward n hipster-ishโฆ but, all very authentic too, especially if youโre searching for a bona fide shopping adventure in Hong Kong. expect plenty of local and handmade and avant garde and def NO tacky; basically, the kind of place youโd want to shop for gifts if youโre looking to NOT tarnish your reputation.
๐ช๐๐๐ฅ๐
โจ๏ธ 35 Aberdeen Street, Central, Hong Kong
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*๐ญ๐ถ๐น ๐ป๐ฏ๐ฌ ๐ช๐จ๐ญ๐ฌ ๐ฏ๐ถ๐ท๐ท๐ฌ๐น*
๐ค ๐ฆ๐๐๐ฃ ๐ง๐๐๐ฆ: Basic Cafรฉs
๐ค ๐๐ข ๐ง๐๐๐ฆ ๐๐ก๐ฆ๐ง๐๐๐: Upstairs Cafรฉs
๐ช๐๐ฌ
upstairs cafes are REALLY a thing in hk!!
like the name suggests, these cafes are basically nestled on the second level of old buildings in busy districts, and theyโre typically so tiny and non-descript and run-down from the outside that you will doubt whether youโre at the right place. a lot of the time, just locating them requires a ton of patience and sheer tenacity; they often have extremely poor visibility frm street level, and itโs super easy to miss them if youโre not paying attention.
๐ช๐๐๐ฅ๐
on the off chance that you wanna wing discovering one (still always best to research first tho, just saying), keep your manual search within the areas of Mong Kok, Tsim Sha Tsui, and Causeway Bay. otherwise, feel free to use this cheat sheet:
โจ๏ธ ๐๐ฐ๐ฎ'๐ด ๐๐ฐ๐ต ๐๐ฐ๐ฎ๐ฆ | HERE YOU'LL FIND... plenty of space, a forest of succulents, and knick-knacks from near and far, meticulously sourced by its globetrotting minimalist owners.
โจ๏ธ ๐๐ข๐ต๐ด ๐๐ฆ๐ข ๐๐ฐ๐ฐ๐ฎ | HERE YOU'LL FIND... lots of well-groomed cats in an extremely well-kept space conducive for both visitors and their furry felines.
โจ๏ธ ๐๐ฏ๐๐ฐ๐จ๐๐ฐ๐จ ๐๐ข๐ง๐ฆ | HERE YOU'LL FIND... a mix of huskies and shiba inus - plus a doggy swimming pool open to locals and their furpets!
โจ๏ธ ๐๐ฐ๐ญ๐ญ๐บ ๐๐ฉ๐ช๐ฏ๐ฌ๐ฆ๐ณ๐ด | HERE YOU'LL FIND... a wide array of board games that put the likes of Monopoly and Scrabble to shame.
โจ๏ธ ๐๐ถ๐ญ๐ญ ๐๐ถ๐ฑ ๐๐ข๐ง๐ฆ | HERE YOU'LL FIND... yourself travelling back in time, with its wall-to-wall collection of vintage artefacts and decor.
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*๐ญ๐ถ๐น ๐ป๐ฏ๐ฌ ๐ฝ๐ฐ๐ฌ๐พ ๐ญ๐ฐ๐ต๐ซ๐ฌ๐น*
๐ค ๐ฆ๐๐๐ฃ ๐ง๐๐๐ฆ: The Peak
๐ค ๐๐ข ๐ง๐๐๐ฆ ๐๐ก๐ฆ๐ง๐๐๐: Dragonโs Back
๐ช๐๐ฌ
this is hands down the BEST way to capture Hong Kongโs panoramic view without having to jostle with the kinds of crowds and queues that you will most def find at The Peak โ tbh it really sucks when you spend so much money and time getting to a place only to realize there is no way you can get a shot of anything without someone elseโs blurry head being in it.
donโt worry, you donโt have to be a nature enthusiast to do Dragonโs Back. it's actually a pretty chill trek even for beginners and takes only about 1.5-2hours/way. donโt forget to stock up on refreshment as there arenโt any snack stops along the way- oh, and ofcos donโt forget your most comfy walking shoes either.
๐ช๐๐๐ฅ๐
โจ๏ธ drop at Shau Kei Wan MTR Station, take Exit A to Shau Kei Wan Bus Terminus >> hop on Bus 9, or the minibus with the sign โShek Oโ next to the bus terminus >> alight at To Tei Wan, Shek O Road.
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*๐ญ๐ถ๐น ๐ป๐ฏ๐ฌ ๐ต๐ฐ๐ฎ๐ฏ๐ป ๐ถ๐พ๐ณ๐บ*
๐ค ๐ฆ๐๐๐ฃ ๐ง๐๐๐ฆ: Lan Kwai Fong
๐ค ๐๐ข ๐ง๐๐๐ฆ ๐๐ก๐ฆ๐ง๐๐๐: Hidden Speakeasies
๐ช๐๐ฌ
like our Clarke Quay, the after-dark experience at LKF can seem impossible to replace at first glance.
but.
that doesnโt mean an alternative does not exist.
for a true #iykyk hk nightlife experience, explore the swathe of clandestine speakeasies primarily hidden across the cityโs central district. theyโre broody, theyโre sophisticated, and theyโre easy to miss if you donโt know what youโre looking for. sometimes, just the mere act of stepping past their camouflaged doors and entrances can make you feel like youโd just being let in on an exclusive secret. here, showmanship is key; so be prepared to be drenched with old-world glamour, the suave sounds of jazz, and enough bespoke cocktails to make you feel like a 1920s New York legend โ if you manage to find your way into one, that is.
๐ช๐๐๐ฅ๐
HK is peppered with a shit ton of speakeasies, but here's my choice few to get started:
โจ๏ธ 001 / HKโs OG hidden bar: look for an unmarked black door hidden among the stalls
โจ๏ธ ๐๐ช๐ฏ๐จ ๐๐ฐ๐ฏ๐จ 129 / an old ping pong hall on the remote and unassuming streets of Sai Ying Pun, transformed into a stylish Spanish gin bar
โจ๏ธ ๐๐ณ ๐๐ฆ๐ณ๐ฏ'๐ด ๐๐ช๐ฏ ๐๐ข๐ณ๐ญ๐ฐ๐ถ๐ณ / located on the underground level right underneath the LV store on the corner; themed around a medical clinic with a door that even says โemergency waiting areaโ for Dr Fern.
โจ๏ธ ๐๐ข๐ฌ๐ถ๐ฎ๐ช ๐๐ช๐น๐ฐ๐ญ๐ฐ๐จ๐บ ๐๐ข๐ญ๐ฐ๐ฏ / discreetly nestled on the third floor of the Cubus building in Causeway Bay, serving up seasonal creations and custom concoctions.
โจ๏ธ ๐๐ฆ๐ฅ ๐๐ฐ๐ฐ๐ฎ / a Prohibition-era-inspired hangout, concealed behind a wall of lockers.
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*๐ญ๐ถ๐น ๐ป๐ฏ๐ฌ ๐ฐ๐ต๐บ๐ป๐จ๐ฎ๐น๐จ๐ด๐ด๐ฌ๐น *
๐ค ๐ฆ๐๐๐ฃ ๐ง๐๐๐ฆ: basic spots like Montaine Mansion & Choi Hung Estate
๐ค ๐๐ข ๐ง๐๐๐ฆ ๐๐ก๐ฆ๐ง๐๐๐: Sai Wan Swimming Shed
๐ช๐๐ฌ
know the frustration of photographing something amazing and then finding out that five other acquaintances on social media took the exact same photo at the exact same spot when they were also in HK? avoid THAT.
this wooden pier with its choppy waters is a popular spot for photograph enthusiasts โ but, its remote location makes it a lot more inaccessible, meaning a lot less running into passers-by and entry-level Instagrammers.
donโt miss the sunset here for anything else.
๐ช๐๐๐ฅ๐
โจ๏ธ drop at Kennedy Town MTR Station >> walk out through Exit A and take the Green Minibus 58 โ the estimated bus travel time is about 30 minutes.
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*๐ญ๐ถ๐น ๐ป๐ฏ๐ฌ ๐ถ๐ญ๐ญ๐ฉ๐ฌ๐จ๐ป ๐ป๐น๐จ๐ฝ๐ฌ๐ณ๐ณ๐ฌ๐น*
๐ค ๐ฆ๐๐๐ฃ ๐ง๐๐๐ฆ: Lantau Island
๐ค ๐๐ข ๐ง๐๐๐ฆ ๐๐ก๐ฆ๐ง๐๐๐: Lamma Island
๐ช๐๐ฌ
technically, there isnโt anything wrong with Lantau Island; but out of Hong Kongโs four outlying islands, Lantau is probably the most marketed and therefore, the most touristed; so hop on to any of the other three for a more authentic (and less overcrowded) experience.
Lamma Island, in particular, is like hkโs answer to Europeโs peaceful Scandinavia, with just the right amount of Asian to make its point. rolling hills, sleepy fishing villages, glorious seafood by the waterfront โ this remote little island is alternative HK at its most rustic; with plenty of old coffee houses, craft shops, and restaurants that stand as a huge contrast to the cityโs constant bustle.
after youโve had your fill, take on its gentle hiking trail, or even while your day away along the waters at Hung Shing Yeh Beach. donโt miss O Tsai Fishing Village in the evening: itโs an ideal spot to watch the sunset from, with a small pavilion that offers spectacular views of neighbouring islands.
๐ช๐๐๐ฅ๐
โจ๏ธ drop off at Central MTR Station >> take a 10-min walk to Central Pier 4 >> hop on a ferry to Lamma Island.
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*๐ญ๐ถ๐น ๐ป๐ฏ๐ฌ ๐จ๐ฉ๐จ๐ต๐ซ๐ถ๐ต๐ฌ๐ซ ๐บ๐ฐ๐ป๐ฌ ๐ฏ๐ผ๐ต๐ป๐ฌ๐น *
๐ค ๐ฆ๐๐๐ฃ ๐ง๐๐๐ฆ: the abandoned town of Ma Wan
๐ค ๐๐ข ๐ง๐๐๐ฆ ๐๐ก๐ฆ๐ง๐๐๐: the abandoned island of Yim Tin Tsai
๐ช๐๐ฌ
ok quick disclaimer: as it is, Ma Wan Ghost Town is by no means a mainstream destination. BUT, if youโre the kind of traveller whoโs already reading up on Ma Wan, you may want to reconsider โ only cos it is going to fall short of your expectations. for one, you will realize very quickly in that Ma Wan is simply just an abandoned town, and the only thing that will scare you here is the number of couples who peg this as a potential wedding photography location.
Yim Tin Tsai, on the other hand, is real and raw and peppered with decomposing homes that will make your skin crawl. the last villagers left in the 1990s; and in the years since, Yim Tin Tsai has pretty much crumbled to bones. more than just broken windows and dilapidated structures, what makes this experience even spookier and surreal is the belongings left behind by its once-occupants. furniture, appliances, crockeries, books, beds with their sheets still on, even mahjong tiles โ itโs not difficult to find your mind wandering back to the days of what must have been when the island was filled with life and movement (and also y did all these ppl leave without their things???)
๐ช๐๐๐ฅ๐
โจ๏ธ small ferries run from Sai Kungโs waterfront promenade regularly, and cost around $35 for a round trip.
โโโโฆโโโ
ok wow if ure still here u def deserve a medal for ur attention span. ur reward is that now u know how to explore hk a lil more meaningfully - i hope ure now also inspired to extend this list with ur own alternative sights too! โ๏ธ
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